Monthly Archives: October, 2015

The Peplum Dress

As I mentioned in my last post, RR’s lovely cousin Miss L got married last month, and I spent the summer sewing away to create two different outfits I could wear to her wedding. My fair weather option was a beautiful 1950s-inspired sundress with contrasting collar and cuffs (which I was happily able to wear – it was a glorious day!) – but as you can never really count on the weather in England, I also had a chilly day standby option – my beautiful peplum dress.

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Back at the start of the summer, when I initially made the toile for this dress, I had plans to make it in a beautiful blue and white heavyweight stretch cotton.

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But as I was making adjustments to my pattern, it occurred to me that this fabric would be far better suited to a summer-weight coat instead. And once I had this thought, I couldn’t get rid of it. I couldn’t envisage it as a dress fabric anymore, it was definitely coat fabric! So although I loved the pattern, and the toile was fitting beautifully, I needed a Plan B.

Cue a morning of fabric rummaging, as I made my way through my dressmaking stash, and hit upon what, if it worked, could be an absolutely stunning option. The remnants of my pink bouclé fabric I’d purchased last year for my couture sewing class with Susan Khalje, and which ended up becoming my Marfy jacket.

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Me in my Marfy jacket

At the time, at Alice’s insistence, I’d bought enough of this glorious fabric to make a matching skirt, but had never quite got around to it. And now I realised why – this fabric was just crying out to be made into a beautiful dress instead! Especially when paired with a divine purple silk satin lining I’d picked up at The Silk Society on Berwick Street on my last trip home.

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The only problem was, the pattern called for 2.3m of fabric, and I had a mere 1.3m left. And the fabric has a directional weave, limiting my layout options. What’s more, I’m a bit OCD about pattern matching, so I wanted the weave to follow through across the width of the dress. Nothing like trying to make things easy for myself, eh?!

But nothing ventured, nothing gained, as they say! And so I cut my pattern pieces out of silk organza underlining, spent pretty much an entire weekend playing with the layout until I managed to get it all to fit.

Just.

And without including any hem allowance, leaving out the collar, and scrapping any idea of a belt.

Still, a hem can be faced, a collar wasn’t absolutely necessary, and I don’t much like belts on dresses anyway, so this wasn’t a huge issue for me!

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So I basted the organza to the bouclé fabric, took a deep breath, and cut. And then very slowly started to sew.

At first, it all seemed to be going like a dream. I used the same couture techniques I had learned from Susan to make my jacket (using a silk organza underlining, then catch stitching all the hem allowances down to the underlining to control any fraying), and used a walking foot to make sure the fabric didn’t slip as I was sewing it.

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The dress was almost finished, and fit like a glove, when the unthinkable happened.

When trimming back my seam allowances, just before catch stitching the final seam, I accidentally cut off the skirt vent on one half of the back of the dress. I just wasn’t concentrating, and before I knew it, that little rectangle of fabric was no longer attached to my dress, but sitting forlornly on my sewing table, asking me what the heck I was thinking of.

It has to be admitted that at this point some Very Very Bad Words were uttered, and I can neither confirm nor deny whether they rhymed with “Oh bucket!” They may well have done, and worse too!

Still, I’d invested a lot of time into this dress, and the fabric could in no way be described as inexpensive, so what’s a girl to do? Gather the scraps and try and carefully piece them back together to make some kind of vent facing, which could then be sewn back onto the dress as if nothing had happened.

So that’s exactly what I did! I am a quilter, after all…

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Gathering the scraps

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Matching pattern and sewing together to make a large enough piece for the vent

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Attaching the new vent onto the bottom of the centre back seam

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Et voilà! 

Buoyed by my success, I wondered whether I could repeat this exploit to create a collar for the dress too. I mean, it didn’t strictly speaking need one, but it would be a lovely addition if I could. So, after a whole day’s work with silk organza, fabric scraps, needle and thread, I created this lovely piece of FrankenFabric…

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… which was just big enough to allow me to cut out the collar piece. Yay!!!

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Finally, I added the hem facing and attached the lining, to create my glorious, beautiful, learning experience of a dress.


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Finished peplum dress

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Lovely little side peplum

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Magnificently pieced bias-cut collar

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Divine (and exceedingly flattering!) little cap style sleeves

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Side view

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With my Marfy jacket (sporting newly attached trim!)

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Matching bag…

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… and matching shoes

And after all that, this is all the fabric I had left.

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So the fabric may not have been cheap, but at least nobody can accuse me of wasteful extravagance, can they?!

A Retro Sundress and a Pair of Custom Shoes

After a seemingly endless summer (it was so hot I couldn’t even leave the apartment for days on end!), I have to say I’m very glad that autumn’s now upon us. It’s my favourite time of year, when the leaves start to turn, there’s a chill in the air in the mornings, and all around you can smell the grape harvests from the vineyards being pressed to make lovely Swiss wine.

RR and I left a very hot and humid Switzerland at the start of September for a 2 week break in England, and by the time we arrived home again, the days were crisp and clear and bright, making me think of autumn walks and pumpkin soup and fruit crumbles. Mmmmmmm!!!

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Last Sunday by the lake

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Plum and cinnamon crumble with walnuts – yummy!

We do try to get back to England together at least once a year, but this time we had a wonderful reason for our trip – RR’s lovely cousin Miss L was getting married 🙂 We’d been looking forward to this wedding for a long time, and I was determined to find the perfect outfit to wear – made by me, of course!

And so, at the start of the summer, I made up a couple of toiles to trial possible dress options – a beautiful 1950s-inspired Butterick sundress, and a more elegant Vogue peplum dress.

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Sundress

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Peplum dress

I wasn’t sure which one I wanted to wear, and as they were both very different styles, and I was making them in very different fabrics, I decided to make both. Especially as I wanted to have options for both a chilly, damp day and a warm sunny one, given that you can never rely on the weather in England!

As it happened, it was a glorious day, and I ended up wearing my beautiful retro sundress, made up in a gorgeous Art Gallery cotton fabric. I chose a matching off-white Art Gallery solid to make up the collar and the cuffs, and to cover the buttons down the front bodice, and I lined it all with a lovely white cotton voile, bought at hideous expense from my local fabric store, but so soft and breathable it really was the ideal choice.

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Butterfly Bliss from the Rapture range by Pat Bravo.

I did initially try to pattern match when I was cutting out, but the dress called for so much fabric that in the end I think I’d have had to buy an entire bolt, and even then it would be touch and go. As it was, I had to buy extra to get it all to fit. But I don’t think you really notice, and I absolutely love this dress, pattern matching or no!

Seeing as I had previously made a toile, the dress went together really quickly and easily. The main problem was wrestling with all that fabric when I was sewing! Oh, and hand-sewing the hem took the best part of a weekend. But I do so love the look of a hand sewn hem…

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Retro sundress

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Retro sundress – bodice

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Retro sundress – bodice close up

In the end, the biggest problem I had was trying to find the right shoes to match. After all, shoes make the outfit! I spent an entire day in London trawling Oxford Street, Regent Street and Bond Street in a vain attempt to find the right colour shoe in the right style with the right height heel. It appeared that such a shoe didn’t exist. I could find the ideal style in the wrong colour, or the right colour with sky high heels that crippled me just to look at them! I was resigned to having to wear wellies or my trusty Converse sneakers to the wedding, and was about to drown my sorrows in a large G&T when my lovely friend Nic posted a link for me to a wonderful company called Upper Street, who create customised shoes to your own design. I immediately called and made an appointment to visit their Shoe Lounge in central London.

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OMG!!! What a revelation!!! No more battling the west end crowds and trawling all the shoe shops to find what you need. No, over a glass of bubbly and with a yummy macaron or two to sustain you, you can sit in the comfort of their elegant Shoe Lounge, surrounded by shoe-spiration galore, and create your ideal shoe from scratch with the help of one of their lovely designers.

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Shoe-spiration…

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… and more shoe-spiration…

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… everywhere you look, shoe-spiration!

Seriously. You can choose shoe shape, heel height, straps, buckles and zips, what the shoe is made from, what colour it is. You can even have a custom inscription on the sole of the shoe itself. And although it costs a little more than say Hobbs or LK Bennett, it’s a lot less than a pair of Louboutins. Wow!!!

Needless to say, I ordered a pair 🙂 A peep toe court shoe with a kitten heel, made from off-white snakeskin.

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My first custom-designed shoe!

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Such a cute peep toe!

They’re simple and elegant and will go with pretty much anything – the ideal summer shoe! I picked them up four weeks later, just before the wedding. They were (and still are!) perfect, and totally made the outfit (along with the cute Furla bag that had caught my eye on my way to collect them…)

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Matching bag from Furla

And so, without further ado, here’s the full “look” in all its glory. Ta da!!!!!

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And although I’ve run out of time for this summer, I know that I’ll be making this dress again and again, in fact I have the ideal fabric stashed away for it for next summer. And, fortunately, it will go perfectly with my beautiful new shoes.

A retro sundress and a glorious pair of custom shoes. What more could a girl want??!